Hàng Đường

10/08/2010 | 14:03:00

VGP - In the early days, shops in Hàng Đường Street sold dried, sweetened fruits or vegetables called mứt (jam). Another specialty of the street was ô mai, sweetened or salted whole fruit and a few shops here still sell these delicacies.

Hàng Đường Street is famous for dried, sweetened or salted whole fruits
At No. 36 Hàng Đường, gaily-painted dharma warriors guard the gate of the Cầu Đông Pagoda. Inside, women chant to the rhythm of a gong, kneeling on mats at the altar in honor of Ngô Văn Long, a general in the reign of Hùng Duệ Vương, the eighteenth (pre-historic) Hùng king! This is a richly carved gilt temple, as is the adjoining Buddhist pagoda, thick pagoda, thick gilt columns and intricate gilt carvings over the altars and doors. Ranks of carved arhat statues stand to the left and right of the altar. An open-work, nine-dragon throne to Buddhist as a baby occupies the central altar space, behind which sits a huge placid Buddha having reached Nirvana, the topmost rank of statues representing the Buddha’s of Past, Present and Future.

A stele of 1624 tells of the rebuilding and expansion by a married monk patron named Nguyễn Văn Hiệp and describes the temple as being located on a beautiful site, “the Nhị Hà River flowing in front and the Long Biên (Imperial) Citadel and mountains behind.” A stele of 1711 announces that Cầu Đông was declared a Specially Privileged Pagoda. So it has been considered distinguished for nearly three hundred years.

The temple on the left holds four statues, the largest, said to represent Trần Thủ Độ (1194-1254), next to his wife – so this pagoda is very old. Trần Thủ Độ was a powerful political figure, who forced the young daughter of the last Lý Emperor to marry his nephew, Trần Cảnh. He then forced the princess to hand over the throne to his young nephew, thus establishing the Trần Dynasty in 1225.

By Carol Howland

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